2000 Accord EX 4cyl SRS light on steady, but no DTC

First time here I think...

I guess the subject line pretty much tells it all. I checked FAQ's and
Googled it, nada.

Any ideas? It's the lack of a DTC that puzzles me the most.

ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out.

Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper
retaining bolts?

Thanks in advance.

Jim

 

This happened to me several years ago with my 2000 SE. Turned out to be a
problem with a seat belt latch. I think it was the subject of a recall
notice. The dealer fixed it for free (seat belts are warranted for the life
of the car).

I'd take it to the dealer and get the code read.

Can't help you with the bolts, sorry.

Paul

 

That's the wrinkle...the car is not throwing a code. An OBD scan comes
back clean.

 

When no DTC is stored but the light comes on, this can be due to a bad SRS
control module.

Your model has several oustanding TSBs on the SRS system, but there's
nothing I can find covering a no-DTC condition. I would call the dealer,
give him your VIN and ask if they have any TSBs in their system (more
complete than what's available to me) which would cover the symptoms you
see.

ONLY the odometer backlight? Do the other dash lights work OK? Can you dim
and brighten them?

You mean the ones holding the caliper to the mount bracket? Can you not get
them to loosen?

 

Will do, thanks.

Yup, JUST the odo. All others work fine in all respects.

Yes, those bolts. Mine are reeeeeaaaal tight and the rubber boot is
twisting with it.

Thanks again Tegger.

Jim

 

you only unbolt the small one at the bottom, then the caliper swings up
hinged by the upper slide. and it loosens no problem.

 

I'm not doing a brake job, I'm replacing the hubs (bearings). Thanks anyway.

 

then there's no rubber boot...

and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on a
honda.

 

It's probably just the bulb. Remove the cluster and replace it.

Does this one have a hollow steel sleeve that is completely surrounded by a
rubber boot? A long bolt goes through that hollow sleeve into the caliper
mount bracket?

 

Yes, there are.

Noise, mostly. I replaced the left front last year, it was shot.

 

Kinda what I figured. Just too lazy to pull the dash apart for one bulb
I don't really need anyway.

That's what my Chilton's shows. This is my first excursion in this area.

 

If the bolts are seized to the sleeve, then everything is rusted together.

Try TIGHTENING the bolt to help break the corrosion seal between the bolt
and sleeve. Tightening should clamp the sleeve in place so it can't turn.

Tighten 1/8 turn, loosen the same amount, then go back and forth like that
a bit. Once the seal has been well broken up, you should be able to remove
the bolt all the way.

 

In Northeastern climates, the weather seal fails on the backs of the
bearings. Moisture gets in and the races rust, causing noise.

Typical lifespan for wheel bearings up here is about seven or eight years
or so, depending on the amount of driving.

 

Sounds like he is working on the wrong bolts.... the caliper mounting bolts

 

You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle
bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to the
mount bracket. Different.

 

?? he said he's changing the hub bearing... doens't that mean you need to
remove the caliper to steering knuckle bracket?

 

You'd need to remove the caliper first, then the mount bracket, then the
rotor. If he's mentioning "rubber boots" he's talking about the caliper-to-
mount-bolts. Those are the only ones with boots.

 

but there's no point - just remove the mount bracket and the whole thing
comes off. no boots.

 

I'm asking about the rear calipers on a 2000 Accord.

 

Oh? Do the rear bolts look like this...?
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes5.html

If they do, you simply need a 6-point 12mm wrench.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/rr_brake_6pointer.jpg
If the caliper mount bolts are not removed at least once per year, they
rust solidly in place and are a bitch to remove.