2000 Accord EX 4cyl SRS light on steady, but no DTC

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Nasty, Sep 4, 2007.

  1. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    First time here I think...

    I guess the subject line pretty much tells it all. I checked FAQ's and
    Googled it, nada.

    Any ideas? It's the lack of a DTC that puzzles me the most.

    ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out.

    Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper
    retaining bolts?

    Thanks in advance.

    Nasty, Sep 4, 2007
  2. Nasty

    Paul Guest

    This happened to me several years ago with my 2000 SE. Turned out to be a
    problem with a seat belt latch. I think it was the subject of a recall
    notice. The dealer fixed it for free (seat belts are warranted for the life
    of the car).

    I'd take it to the dealer and get the code read.

    Can't help you with the bolts, sorry.

    Paul, Sep 4, 2007
  3. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    That's the wrinkle...the car is not throwing a code. An OBD scan comes
    back clean.
    Nasty, Sep 4, 2007
  4. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    When no DTC is stored but the light comes on, this can be due to a bad SRS
    control module.

    Your model has several oustanding TSBs on the SRS system, but there's
    nothing I can find covering a no-DTC condition. I would call the dealer,
    give him your VIN and ask if they have any TSBs in their system (more
    complete than what's available to me) which would cover the symptoms you

    ONLY the odometer backlight? Do the other dash lights work OK? Can you dim
    and brighten them?

    You mean the ones holding the caliper to the mount bracket? Can you not get
    them to loosen?
    Tegger, Sep 4, 2007
  5. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    Will do, thanks.
    Yup, JUST the odo. All others work fine in all respects.
    Yes, those bolts. Mine are reeeeeaaaal tight and the rubber boot is
    twisting with it.

    Thanks again Tegger.

    Nasty, Sep 5, 2007
  6. Nasty

    jim beam Guest

    you only unbolt the small one at the bottom, then the caliper swings up
    hinged by the upper slide. and it loosens no problem.
    jim beam, Sep 5, 2007
  7. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    I'm not doing a brake job, I'm replacing the hubs (bearings). Thanks anyway.
    Nasty, Sep 5, 2007
  8. Nasty

    jim beam Guest

    then there's no rubber boot...

    and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on a
    jim beam, Sep 5, 2007
  9. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    It's probably just the bulb. Remove the cluster and replace it.

    Does this one have a hollow steel sleeve that is completely surrounded by a
    rubber boot? A long bolt goes through that hollow sleeve into the caliper
    mount bracket?
    Tegger, Sep 5, 2007
  10. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    Yes, there are.
    Noise, mostly. I replaced the left front last year, it was shot.
    Nasty, Sep 5, 2007
  11. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    Kinda what I figured. Just too lazy to pull the dash apart for one bulb
    I don't really need anyway.

    That's what my Chilton's shows. This is my first excursion in this area.
    Nasty, Sep 5, 2007
  12. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    If the bolts are seized to the sleeve, then everything is rusted together.

    Try TIGHTENING the bolt to help break the corrosion seal between the bolt
    and sleeve. Tightening should clamp the sleeve in place so it can't turn.

    Tighten 1/8 turn, loosen the same amount, then go back and forth like that
    a bit. Once the seal has been well broken up, you should be able to remove
    the bolt all the way.
    Tegger, Sep 5, 2007
  13. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    In Northeastern climates, the weather seal fails on the backs of the
    bearings. Moisture gets in and the races rust, causing noise.

    Typical lifespan for wheel bearings up here is about seven or eight years
    or so, depending on the amount of driving.
    Tegger, Sep 5, 2007
  14. Sounds like he is working on the wrong bolts.... the caliper mounting bolts
    loewent via CarKB.com, Sep 5, 2007
  15. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle
    bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to the
    mount bracket. Different.
    Tegger, Sep 5, 2007
  16. ?? he said he's changing the hub bearing... doens't that mean you need to
    remove the caliper to steering knuckle bracket?
    loewent via CarKB.com, Sep 6, 2007
  17. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    You'd need to remove the caliper first, then the mount bracket, then the
    rotor. If he's mentioning "rubber boots" he's talking about the caliper-to-
    mount-bolts. Those are the only ones with boots.
    Tegger, Sep 6, 2007
  18. Nasty

    jim beam Guest

    but there's no point - just remove the mount bracket and the whole thing
    comes off. no boots.
    jim beam, Sep 6, 2007
  19. Nasty

    Nasty Guest

    I'm asking about the rear calipers on a 2000 Accord.
    Nasty, Sep 6, 2007
  20. Nasty

    Tegger Guest

    Oh? Do the rear bolts look like this...?

    If they do, you simply need a 6-point 12mm wrench.
    If the caliper mount bolts are not removed at least once per year, they
    rust solidly in place and are a bitch to remove.
    Tegger, Sep 6, 2007
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