1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question

I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda
Passport, 4WD.

What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am
not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it.
When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it
wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned
me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the
bearings.

When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now.
Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned
or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine.

I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either
sticking or is no good.

What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them
rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just
wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of
what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the
rotor too tightly.

Thanks.

 

You may be slightly over-reacting. Every vehicle's brakes that I have ever
replaced have had the exact same "problem" it's called pnuematic pressure.
It builds up when a vehicle is off, and there's no decent flow of brake
fluid, and the fluid just builds up at the lowest point, thanks to gravity.
The lowest point happens to be the brake calipers. (This is why a running
vehicle is easier to push in neutral than a stopped vehicle is.) Get
yourself a C-clamp to push the pistons back in, and then see how easy it is
to turn with the calipers on.

Now, to see if the calipers are sticking, try to slide them by hand with
them off the rotor.. back and forth, if they dont move freely, then the
calipers should be replaced, if they do, and the piston pops back out after
pushing it in with the C-clamp, then the pistons are bad.. if the calipers
move, and the piston stays where you pushed it to, then nothing is wrong.

Chuck Burns

 

Thanks for the advice/procedure. I agree. I think I might be
over-reacting, especially due to the fact that this car has been sitting in
my driveway for the past almost two months. It's my first "dive" into the
realm of self-mechanics -- and DEFINITELY the last. But I am having fun.
I've spent the past few weeks cleaning out both sides of the heads, fixing
various problems along the way.

This car was definitely neglected over the past few years regarding oil
changes, et cetera.

The current work has now included a total replacement of rocker arm shafts
for both sides, the completion of cleaning, re-awaking stuck hydraulic
lifters, and replacement of all oil seals, timing belt, thermostat, all
belts, et cetera.

It's been fun. The wife's ready to have her car back now, though.

I've been killing time this week on the wheel bearings and brakes (something
I am a bit more used to doing) whilst waiting for my new rocker shafts to
arrive for the other side.

Thanks for your replies.

AJPDLA

 

you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44
each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go
get the calipers

 

you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44
each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go
get the calipers

 

you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44
each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go
get the calipers

 

Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live.
I'm in the boonies, for sure.

 

Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live.
I'm in the boonies, for sure.

 

Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live.
I'm in the boonies, for sure.

 

I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the
results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per
front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy
to replace.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the
results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per
front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy
to replace.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the
results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per
front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy
to replace.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.

Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD.

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire.
3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great)
4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("")
5. Remove the snap ring.
6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order.
7. Remove the drive clutch assembly.
8. Remove the inner cam.
9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up
stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be
prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off.
10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch.
11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer
wheel bearing.
12. Pull the hub off the spindle.
13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty
difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish
it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily.

Installation is pretty much reverse.

DISCLAIMER:

This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of
your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees.

me??

 

I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.

Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD.

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire.
3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great)
4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("")
5. Remove the snap ring.
6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order.
7. Remove the drive clutch assembly.
8. Remove the inner cam.
9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up
stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be
prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off.
10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch.
11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer
wheel bearing.
12. Pull the hub off the spindle.
13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty
difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish
it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily.

Installation is pretty much reverse.

DISCLAIMER:

This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of
your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees.

me??

 

I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.

Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD.

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire.
3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great)
4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("")
5. Remove the snap ring.
6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order.
7. Remove the drive clutch assembly.
8. Remove the inner cam.
9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up
stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be
prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off.
10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch.
11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer
wheel bearing.
12. Pull the hub off the spindle.
13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty
difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish
it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily.

Installation is pretty much reverse.

DISCLAIMER:

This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of
your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees.

me??