1994 Civic LX Alternator Replacement

Discussion in 'Civic' started by nixternal, Feb 18, 2007.

  1. nixternal

    nixternal Guest

    I have a '94 Civic LX that needs an alternator replacement. I have
    read that in order to replace the alternator, you have to drop the
    half shaft in order to do so. I have also heard of people taking it
    out of the top by removing the intake manifold.

    My questions are...Which way is the best (i.e., the easiest)? How hard
    is this to do? Are there any tricks to making it easy?

    I appreciate any and all help. Thanks everyone!

    Rich
     
    nixternal, Feb 18, 2007
    #1
  2. nixternal

    nixternal Guest

    4dr, automatic, no abs, 1.5L - sorry for not putting this one up :)
     
    nixternal, Feb 18, 2007
    #2
  3. The best trick works if the problem is that the brushes are worn out. In a
    '94 I'd expect that to be the problem. Symptoms are that it started charging
    off and on, then more off than on :-( You may not have noticed the off
    and on until it was all off. Anyway, replacing the brushes is a challenge
    but apparently not as great a challenge as getting the alternator out in
    most cases.

    Check out Elle's write-up on her '91 Civic at
    http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id14.html
    (Don't overlook the part about disconnecting the battery.) Elle is our
    resident expert on most things Civic.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Feb 18, 2007
    #3
  4. I forgot Elle's main alternator page,
    http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id13.html
     
    Michael Pardee, Feb 18, 2007
    #4
  5. nixternal

    Elle Guest

    Only thanks to Eric, Tegger, Curly, JB, JT ("Grumpy"),
    George of years ago, you, and many other regulars.

    Nixternal, note especially the following comment within my
    site:
    To remove the alternator in its entirety, use any of the
    online Honda manuals (including Autozone's), supplemented by
    rec.autos.makers.honda hints [link at my site is broken;
    you'll have to groups.google the newsgroup's archives].
    Notice especially the hints about getting that extra inch or
    two of clearance needed to pull the alternator out: You'll
    need to support and push against the engine via a jack,
    pressing against a block of wood, which presses against the
    oil pan. After this, an engine mount is removed, and the
    engine is jacked higher. A similar method is used during
    timing belt removal, only the manuals are explicit about
    providing support at the oil pan.
     
    Elle, Feb 18, 2007
    #5
  6. nixternal

    patbro Guest

    I have a 95 CX hatchback,just replaced my alternator last month.Came
    out the top(near the left middle/back)easy enough.
    The BIG pain was to take the main bolt(the one that goes trought the
    casing)off.It was stuck there.
    Look and try different position and it should come out,unless there is
    something that's in the way and it's not on mine.
    Good luck!
     
    patbro, Feb 19, 2007
    #6
  7. nixternal

    nixternal Guest

    Thanks everyone for the responses. The alternator is totally dead so I
    will be replacing it with a new alternator. When I say dead, I mean
    ceased :) I just read that I don't have to remove the half shaft
    which is promising now. My plans are to:
    a) Remove and replace the alternator
    b) Remove and replace the belts (alternator belt is gone anyways)

    And then of course a nice tune up, some fresh oil, and maybe another
    250,000 miles :) At 13 years old, the engine still purrs like it is
    new. The only "major" thing I had happen to the car was while doing
    about 70mph on the highway the timing chain busted. The first reaction
    from the tow truck driver and the mechanic was, "good chance your
    valves are totaled as well." Well, nothing happened, all they had to
    do was replace the timing chain and I think the water pump, can't
    remember. They were all shocked that there wasn't more damage.

    My only gripe about this car are the half shafts. The original shafts
    went about 125,000 miles, then I screwed up and went to Sears for a
    new set ($500 installed and aligned), which went out a whopping 50,000
    miles later. Not went out literally but the nice popping sound you get
    when turning. I have that issue again, but not as bad just yet. Being
    a student makes the money tight, so right now my main goal is to get
    it running again :)

    Thanks again everyone and thanks Elle for the website link!
     
    nixternal, Feb 19, 2007
    #7
  8. nixternal

    Elle Guest

    Remember to use OEM parts for all ignition system items
    (spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs).
    They pay for themselves. I am frugal and learned this the
    hard way.
    That's a timing belt on your car, technically. Some (all?)
    of the newer Hondas have timing chains, starting around
    2000 or a bit afterwards.

    One can indeed get lucky with a timing belt failure, as you
    apparently did. "Good chance" remains an accurate
    descriptor.
    Consider buying OEM half shafts online from Honda parts
    sites next time. Should be around $150 per half shaft. If
    you're handy, you might be able to do it yourself. If you
    can do it yourself, it's worth considering a halfshaft from
    Napa or Autozone with a lifetime guarantee, so all it costs
    you is labor. Caveat: Some here say they are not happy with
    the halfshafts they have purchased from Napa and Autozone.

    I figure your car likely could stand several items being
    replaced, and for under a $1000, to get another 100k miles
    or more out of it. At least, this is what I found with my
    1991 Civic (189k miles) a few years ago. My biggest concern
    with my Civic is rusting out of certain areas of the body.
    So far, it's "only" cosmetic (knock on wood).
    No problem. Feel free to let the newsgroup know how it goes.
    Good luck.
     
    Elle, Feb 19, 2007
    #8
  9. Joe, I have had good results with the local NAPA, but aftermarket sources
    may not get you exactly the axles for your car. They come in a variety of
    sizes and shapes. It is very easy to get one that looks right but is a cm
    too long or short. Comparing carefully at the store is best but requires the
    old axle be out before you pick up the new one. In any case, put them side
    by side sometime before you install the new one.

    If you haven't done a drive axle replacement before, be prepared. It
    requires at least a way of separating a tie rod end and removing the axle
    nut. The first is a matter of the right tool, and the second requires either
    an impact wrench or a big honkin' cheater bar. Check back before embarking
    on that the first time.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Feb 19, 2007
    #9
  10. nixternal

    z Guest

    My aftermarket rebuilt axlehalfshaft (don't remember the brand, the
    mechanic had sourced it somewhere) broke. I mean, the CV joint was
    fine, the axle broke in the middle. Parked it in the AM; started it up
    in the PM, didn't goose it or nothing, moved 2 inches and snap. How we
    did larf, arr arr arr.
    Yeah, that HOnda rear quarter panel rust thing is nasty and universal.
    Looks like JC Whitney is starting to stock some Honda quarter panel
    repair panels, but I'm not that bad off yet.
     
    z, Feb 20, 2007
    #10
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