1991 Accord Dead Igntion

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phil
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Phil

My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and
determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How
can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor
turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). I
understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to
test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the
rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off.

Thank you,

- Phil
 
Also, feel free to take the dist out of the car. Mark on the block
where the rotor is pointing, and then take all the bolts out and remove
the dist. The rotor will pry off with a big blade screwdriver. There is
a test for the ignitor, I can check the manual if you have a meter. bob
 
About 3 years ago on our 92 Accord I had what sounds like the same
problem --- was the ignition relay located under the left foot rest that was
the problem as I recall.

That has been the only failure this car has had since new -- all other
repair bills have been for normal maintenance and wearables such as exhaust,
tires, brakes and minor front end.

If I can remember the bill was something like $200 can. Oh one other thing
failed and that was the radio antenna which I replace with an old fashioned
stick style rather than the one hidden power one.

I figure there's at least 3 to 4 more years of wear in this baby with just
180,000 km on it now.

Hope yours is as dependable as this one.

The Artful Codger
 
I figure there's at least 3 to 4 more years of wear in this baby with just
180,000 km on it now.
Click to expand...


3 to 4 years? For sure! Mine's at 264,000km and compression is still great
and it's my daily commuter & trip car! Amazing cars for a 4 cyl!
 
I have a typical multimeter, so if that is what is needed, I can test. What
is the procedure. This car will not be kept for much longer, so do not want
to buy a manual. So, if you can tell me what to look for, that would be
great.

- Phil
 
How does one get to this?

- Phil

Artfulcodger said:
About 3 years ago on our 92 Accord I had what sounds like the same
problem --- was the ignition relay located under the left foot rest that was
the problem as I recall.

That has been the only failure this car has had since new -- all other
repair bills have been for normal maintenance and wearables such as exhaust,
tires, brakes and minor front end.

If I can remember the bill was something like $200 can. Oh one other thing
failed and that was the radio antenna which I replace with an old fashioned
stick style rather than the one hidden power one.

I figure there's at least 3 to 4 more years of wear in this baby with just
180,000 km on it now.

Hope yours is as dependable as this one.

The Artful Codger



dust).
Click to expand...
 
I personally did not repair this but my mechanic friend told me that is
where the ignition module was located.
Under the left foot rest on a 92 Accord.

The Artful Codger
 
| How can I determine what the cause of this problem is?

Touch the ridge ( above coil ) of your distributor cap while some1
cranks engine, if you can feel ~1320v AC jolt, "ignitor" is fine.
 
Phil said:
I have a typical multimeter, so if that is what is needed, I can test.
What is the procedure. This car will not be kept for much longer, so do
not want to buy a manual. So, if you can tell me what to look for, that
would be great.
Click to expand...

Here's a link to an online version of the manual.
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/

Eric
 
Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the
problem. Expensive parts!

G-Man
 
How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.

- Phil
 
hi,
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
the "igniter"?
is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
know about that?

hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!

thanks and best wishes,

michael
 
Hi Mike

I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.

Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.

If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.

Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
 
RemcoW said:
Hi Mike

I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.

Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn
the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't
start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes
won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney -
the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending
on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.

If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is
far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see
pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.

Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
Click to expand...
With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.

The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
 
i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
wires.
 
and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
flashes the ignitor is good.
all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
side of the coil.
i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
Chip
 
Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
I'll have to remember that one for next time.

With your honda experience, you should think about putting
ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
mechanics would appreciate it.

Remco
 
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