1990 honda accord auto trans problem????

[jktaz]

I just bought a 90 accord ex and i think the trans computer might be bad. At start up trans shifts into gear but slips a little. when you come to complete stop the car wont move like the trans disengages, high rev but no movement. If i shut the car off for at least 10 seconds it will shift into gear again untill i come to a full stop again. I havent drained the fluid yet for all i know it has the wrong fluid in it but the fact that shuting off the key makes a difference leads me to an electrical problem. Hopefully someone else has seen this problem before and can help me out.

 

['Curly Q. Links']

I just bought a 90 accord ex and i think the trans computer might be bad. At start up trans shifts into gear but slips a little. when you come to complete stop the car wont move like the trans disengages, high rev but no movement. If i shut the car off for at least 10 seconds it will shift into gear again untill i come to a full stop again. I havent drained the fluid yet for all i know it has the wrong fluid in it but the fact that shuting off the key makes a difference leads me to an electrical problem. Hopefully someone else has seen this problem before and can help me out.

Do a google search regarding blown capacitors in the ECU. It's age related, so yours is the right age. Have you searched this NG? There have been some posts even a few months ago. A drain-n-fill with Honda Z1 (or two or three) is just common sense, but it sounds like you might be right about the electronics. There are a few caps and a resistor or two that blow. It's a DIY job if you can solder. Some folks just go to the wrecker and buy a used unit.

'Curly'

 

[jktaz]

This may sound like a dumb question but is there an ECU and a trans computer or are they both one and the same?

I just bought a 90 accord ex and i think the trans computer might be bad. At start up trans shifts into gear but slips a little. when you come to

[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]

the key makes a difference leads me to an electrical problem. Hopefully someone else has seen this problem before and can help me out.

Do a google search regarding blown capacitors in the ECU. It's age related, so yours is the right age. Have you searched this NG? There have been some posts even a few months ago. A drain-n-fill with Honda Z1 (or two or three) is just common sense, but it sounds like you might be right about the electronics. There are a few caps and a resistor or two that blow. It's a DIY job if you can solder. Some folks just go to the wrecker and buy a used unit.

'Curly'

 

['Curly Q. Links']

This may sound like a dumb question but is there an ECU and a trans computer or are they both one and the same?

Try tegger.com and search for more . . .

I just bought a 90 accord ex and i think the trans computer might be bad. At start up trans shifts into gear but slips a little. when you come to

[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]

the key makes a difference leads me to an electrical problem. Hopefully someone else has seen this problem before and can help me out.

Do a google search regarding blown capacitors in the ECU. It's age related, so yours is the right age. Have you searched this NG? There have been some posts even a few months ago. A drain-n-fill with Honda Z1 (or two or three) is just common sense, but it sounds like you might be right about the electronics. There are a few caps and a resistor or two that blow. It's a DIY job if you can solder. Some folks just go to the wrecker and buy a used unit.

'Curly'

Mitsubishi/Honda ECM failures -- Fact or fiction:

The fact is, the Mitsubishi and Honda models of ECMs and TCUs manufactured within the years of 1989-1994 utilize certain electrolytic capacitors that after a certain number of hours or mileage, begin a systematic breakdown. These capacitors eventually break their seal and leak the electrolyte which is a corrosive substance. [SNIP]

Google is your friend.......
http://www.google.ca/search?q=+capacitors+ECU+honda+blown+transmission&btnG=Search&hl=en

'Curly'

 

[Misterbeets]

You need a way to cycle the AT controller without shutting off the engine, to truly assign the problem to the controller. Because in shutting off the engine you are also letting the hydraulic pressure fall to zero.

You could remove and reconnect its power connector/fuse with the engine running, to see if that has the same effect.