1990 Civic left rear wheel bearing?

I got a call this afternoon from a friend who says he has a
"rumbling" noise from the left rear tire area. My first guess
was wheel bearing. He says when he turns right the noise goes
away. And that it wasn't noticable except on WET roads.

Could this be tire cupping?

I plan on going over Saturday afternoon and swaping left front
with left rear and see, or hear what happens.

This frined took early medical retirement and is fighting
the SS office so he is pretty tight moeny wise.

Before I even think about changing the wheel bearing what am
I thinking about getting into?

I am afriad of the no good deed goes unpunished sequence.

Looking at the manual I see that I will have:
unstake the nut
remove the nut
remove the hub

Am I understanding that the bearing is permantly attached
to the hub?

replace the hub
replace the nut with a NEW on
restake nut

Is that it or does the brake assembly have to be removed?


Terry

 

so, your friend tells you what they think it is, then you tell us what
you think your friend thinks it is? that's not a recipe for successful
diagnostics.

go check the car out personally, then report back.

 

wrote in

If it's only noticeable on wet roads, it's unlikely to be the wheel
bearing. A wheel bearing would be independent of road moisture.

Tires make some really weird noises when they wear oddly.

Excellent idea.

The bearing is pressed into the hub, just like the front. You need a
big-ass press to squeeze the thing out of there. You can remove the
trailing arm then take that to a machine shop to get the hub bearing
replaced. That's easy enough except for the rust.

I don't think it's the bearing though. The rear wheel bearings are well
protected from the elements and rarely go bad, unlike the fronts...

Removing the brake is the least of your worries. That's easy.

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
snip

Removing the brake is the least of your worries. That's easy.

TeGGeR®
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You are starting to scare me.

Terry

 

wrote in

Halloween is *next* month. BOO!

 

TeGGeR:
Is the nut going to be THAT hard to remove?
Is this like the never damned enough timing belt nut?
That was a real PITA!

Terry

 

wrote in

Actually, it won't be. I just checked my manual and have discovered that
you do NOT /necessarily/ need a press (sorry about that) to remove the old
bearing.

The staked nut is torqued to 134 ft-lbs, so would be easily shifted by a
250ft-lb DeWalt electric impact gun as cheaply rented by most industrial
supply houses.

DON'T remove the nut at the BACK of the trailing arm!

The hub bearing itself is pressed into the hub. I do not now know the price
difference between the bearing alone and the hub/bearing assembly.

This extract is specifically for the '92-'95 Civic with disc brakes, but
ought to be applicable to your '90 with drums or discs.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/92-95_Civic_rear-hub_bearing.pdf

 

easily shifted by a 1/2" breaker bar too!

honda won't sell you the bearing alone, just the assembly, which is
interesting given that they'll happily sell other bearings on their own.
i think this means there's no convenient way to extract the races
from the hub once pressed in.

 

Thanks for the link.
I am trying to get my ducks in a row before I do anything other
then swap tires.

Terry

 

jim beam wrote:

easily shifted by a 1/2" breaker bar too!


honda won't sell you the bearing alone, just the assembly, which is
interesting given that they'll happily sell other bearings on their
own.
i think this means there's no convenient way to extract the races
from the hub once pressed in.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Thanks for the information.
I want to know what would be involved IF I decide to be
helpfull/foolish
and agree to help him change the bearing/hub.

Terry

 

I left one step out.
The brake drum has to be reoved first.
This isn't going to be fun.

Terry

 

Is the staked nut the one on the outside of the hub?
I have disc brakes in my 94 civic.
134ft lbs when I reassemble?
I had to grind off the old bearing race on the axle stub.

 

Yes. The one on the back face of the trailing arm holds the spindle to the
trailing arm.

Same procedure.

Yes. Then stake.